BETHESDA. The speakeasy aesthetics set a cool scene at this large, well-received establishment. Seafood is the highlight, but it's more than grilled filets (although those offered are delicious, encrusted with coriander and pistachios). Oysters are tempting broiled or fried, and the cod branade fritters are downright addictive. Mains include black pepper and fennel-crusted tuna, seafood stew, organic salmon and seared sea scallops with Swiss shard. From the wood-fired grill, dandies like filet mignon, Berkshire pork chop and loin of Shenandoah lamb are available for landlubbers.

Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm; Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm; Sat 5:30pm-11pm; Sun 10:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-9:30pm

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